Tangier, Morocco as a Port Stop

Blog #89

I have stopped in Morocco on a number of occasions and decided that it was now time to write a blog about this interesting port stop. I know the minute I publish this, I will be asked about Agadir and Casablanca, and I promise that in the future, I will write about both, with a specific focus on Agadir as a port stop. For the purpose of this article, I will cover Tangier.

The first time I visited Tangier, I recall being told it was near the most northern tip of Africa. An assertion not based in fact as that claim to fame belongs to Ras ben Sakka in Tunisia. In fact, Tangier is not even the most northern part of Morocco, but it is located in the north of the country and is the capital of the Tanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceima region. It sits just south of the straight of Gibraltar with the Alboran Sea to the east and the Atlantic Ocean to the west.

For those thinking that having Tangier as a port stop will allow them to visit either Casablanca or Marrakech, you will find those two cities quite a distance away. Casablanca is located 338km away and will take you 3 ½ hours in each direction by train, and Marrakech is 576km away and will take almost 6 hours in one direction by train. 

History

As with so many cities in the Mediterranean area, Tangier was under the control of various cultures and influences over the centuries. Its strategic location made it an excellent port for trade. In the 1st millennium BCE, it was a Phoenician trading post. It is believed that the Phoenicians established the site between 800BC to 1000BC. You can still visit 98 Phoenician tombs atop a bluff overlooking the city. While originally dug into the cliffs outside the city’s main gates, with the growth of the city, the graves are now approximately 500 meters from the fortified old town.

Next up came the Carthaginians. The remains of a Carthaginian settlement can still be seen near Cape Spartel which is 14 kms from Tangier. I am going to talk about visiting Cape Spartel in a later section, so for now, I merely mention it in the context of the history.  The Carthaginians and the Phoenicians were both part of the pioneering Semitic (sometimes known as Shemitic), peoples. While the Phoenicians were known as sailors, the Carthaginians were more land based and had spread westward from Tunisia.

The Romans were the next to conquer the region. Quintus Sertorius captured the area in 81BCE.  The city was ruled by the Romans for approximately five centuries, and in 42AD, it became the capital of the province of Maurentania and given the name of Tingis Colonia. You can still see the remains of the Roman walls in Tangier today. The Romans were responsible for the introduction of legal and administrative practices. As I have noted in other articles about Roman occupations, they introduced aqueducts, baths and sanitary measures that helped improve the quality of lives. Under the Romans who were known to be builders of roads, land access to the port significantly improved.

In the fifth century, as the Roman empire was collapsing, the Vandals arrived. Consisting of various Germanic tribes, the Vandals invaded and brought devastation and mayhem upon the city. Due to their highly destructive nature, the word “vandals” has become synonymous for wanton damage and is still used in present day vernacular.

It should be noted that no matter who controlled the area, this city remained an important port for trade.

Thereafter, various groups had brief control of the city. Rome again and then the Byzantine Empire before the Arabs arrived in the 7th century. Arriving in 682, the Arab general Uqbah ibn Nafi took control of the city and the surrounding lands before heading north to invade parts of Spain.

In 1031, Tangier came under Moroccan rule and stayed that way with short periods of time spent under the jurisdiction of other countries. For example, in 1471 it was under Portuguese rule so you will see the influence of that country as well in some of the architecture. It passed to Spain in 1580 and then to England in 1662. Finally, in 1684, it was returned to Moroccan rule.

People Living in Morocco

The majority of the people living in Morocco are of Arabic or Berber decent. The official languages are Arabic and Berber (Amazigh). I also found that some people in the markets spoke French.

Customs

Do not take photographs of any person without their knowledge and informed consent.

It is advisable to dress conservatively as Islamic practices and beliefs are adhered to in Morocco’s customs, regulations and laws. Because this is a port town, there is a certain amount of latitude in what is accepted in the dress of tourists, but if you venture outside of the city, locals can be more intolerant. If you decide to go to one of the tourist beaches, be aware that females can be the subject of harassment when wearing swimsuits.

Public displays of affection are frowned upon.

Laws

Morocco is a monarchy and criticism of the king is prohibited. When visiting, please refrain from making negative remarks about the royal family or having any political discussions.

The laws of Morocco prohibit sexual acts between individuals of the same sex. As such, 2SLGBTQI+ persons should be aware that public displays of affection could be problematic. Additionally, extramarital sexual relations (between same or different sexes), are also illegal. People should be aware that solicitations in the markets by prostitutes of either sex may occur and could lead to arrest.

Possession, use, or trafficking of illegal drugs is prohibited. If you have prescription drugs that you must take while onshore, remove all but the actual pills you need to take and keep the pills you will take onshore in the prescription container. Do NOT place them in a generic pill container.

The consumption of alcohol outside of licensed locations such as bars or restaurants is not allowed. You can buy alcohol in the market or it can be purchased from licensed stores and taken (still sealed), back to the ship.

Please note that the unauthorized importation of bibles or other non-Islamic religious material is prohibited and religious preaching is forbidden. Avoid religious discussions.

Possession of pornographic material is illegal.

As with many countries, do not take photographs of military or security installations or members of the police or military.

Money

The currency in Morocco is the Moroccan dirham (MAD). The dirham cannot be exchanged outside of the country. Once onshore, if you decide to exchange your money for the dirham, exchange only as much money as needed, as it is illegal to take dirhams out of Morocco.  I found that various stores and restaurants took credit cards.  I also found that euros were accepted by many of the vendors in the markets (souks).

An important word to remember is “Shukran” which means “thank you.”

Things to See or Do in the Port of Tangier

Visit the Kasbah (Casbah)

A Kasbah is a fortified area or a fortress within a city. In Tangier, the Kasbah offers a glimpse into the past and is a popular tourist destination. Situated in the upper part of the medina, it offers up some great views to those who visit and one can see examples of different architectural styles. This area contains a number of homes and buildings with most of the current structures dating from the 17th century. However, one can find bits of Roman structures that have been incorporated into the later buildings.

One attraction is the Dar-el-Makhzen palace which was built in 1684 and was formerly the home of the sultan Mulay Ismail. It is now a museum that covers the different civilizations that influenced the city (Phoenician, Berber, Arab, Greek and Roman to name a few).

I think this is a great area to visit but be warned, you will be approached by various venders selling things or offering to take you on a tour. If you are intimidated by pushy sellers, it is best to view this area in an organized tour.

Mosques in Tangier

There are many mosques in Tangier so you will hear the call to prayers throughout the day. But I will focus on two.

First I will speak of the Grand Mosque of Tangier which is located in the city’s old medina. The site of the grand mosque is believed to have originally been the site of a Roman temple that was dedicated to Hercules. As with many of the Roman temples, it became the site of a 5th-century Roman Catholic church and it is believed that during the Marinid dynasty in the 13th century, it was converted to a mosque. That mosque was later torn down when the Portuguese ruled and consequently another Catholic church was built on site. The current, grand mosque was built in the early 19th century.  You cannot enter the mosque if you are not of the Muslim faith but you can photograph the exterior.

The second is the Mohammed V Mosque which is the largest mosque in Tangier and which is fairly new having been completed in 1983. The story is that this mosque was paid for by a sheik from Kuwait, which is why the square in front is called the Place du Koweit.  It is said that the sheik was displeased that the nearby Catholic Cathedral bell tower dominated the skyline and offered to finance the mosque so the Muslim tower would be taller.

Synagogue

At one time Tangier had a thriving Jewish population but now that number has significantly declined. The current number is unknown but in 2007 there were less than 100.  On Synagogue Street (renamed from the plural Synagogues Street), there is only one remaining and it is reported to be the most beautiful synagogue in all of Morocco. The Moshe Nahon Synagogue was built in 1873 and restored in 1994. You have to search a bit to find the entrance which is a fairly nondescript door but it is well worth a quick visit.

Cathedral

The largest Roman Catholic Cathedral is the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception and the Holy Spirit. I love visiting historic cathedrals because centuries ago, the church had the money to hire the best artists to decorate the interiors. Consequently, this cathedral, which was built in the 1950s and completed in 1961, was not on my radar. However, the tall bell tower that is reported to have annoyed the Kuwaiti sheik, dominates the skyline. Once inside, be sure to take in the stained-glass windows as they are beautiful.

The oldest Catholic church in the city was built by the Spanish. Construction began in 1871 and continued until 1886. Known as La Purísima, the church is located in the medina section on Rue Es-Siaghine, just west of the Petit Socco square.

Shopping in Tangier

There are a number of malls in Tangier and they offer up the usual brand name shops. But why go to Africa to shop for items you can buy in any chain store in North America? I prefer the local markets and suggest you visit the Casabarata Market or the Grand Socco. Both places offer up market stalls that sell everything from clothing to spices and assorted local products. Looking for souvenirs? Look no further than one of these markets. I bought some jewelry and fabulous hand cream on one visit.

Remember to bargain for a better price. Haggling is a normal part of the shopping experience so expect to negotiate to get a better deal.

Camel Rides

A lot of people will want to take the traditional camel ride in the desert. I confess to doing so and yes, it was interesting and I have some great pictures to remind me of the adventure. I recommend you prebook a tour through a reputable tour company. There are various tours such as full or half days. If you want just a quick ride for a photo op, take one of the beach camel rides. They are less expensive and fairly short.

Caves of Hercules and Cape Spartel

Located 14km from Tangier, the caves were officially opened to the public in 1920. It got its name from the legend that Hercules stayed here when doing his 11th of 12 labours. Long touted as a “must visit” place to see for those visiting Tangier, I found it to be interesting. You enter from the land side and you are encouraged to snap a photo of the sea from an opening in the rocks that is reported to be shaped like Africa. I was told it presents a great photo op at sunset; however, I was there during the day and found it to be a typical view of water through a rock opening. The history is fascinating as the caves were inhabited by Neolithic peoples around 6000 years ago. It is said some of the drawings on the walls were subsequently made by the Berber people who mined the caves for stone in which to make millwheels. Cutting stone from the walls expanded the cave considerably.

There is a rumour that the cave is bottomless and leads to a tunnel under the straight to Gibraltar itself. When I visited Gibraltar, I heard the same story when visiting St. Michael’s Cave. It is said that the Barbary macaques who live on the mountain in Gibraltar, used the tunnel to migrate from Africa to Gibraltar. If we meet up, you can ask me about being attacked by one of the beasts on my last visit.

Cape Spartel is located about 12 km from Tangier and offers up sweeping vistas of the Straight of Gibraltar. There is a lighthouse there and a museum. There is also a restaurant and a botanical garden. I confess that I have little to offer in the way of information on this location as I only had time for a quick stop to take photos of the sea and lighthouse.

Day trip to Chefchaouen

Located in the Rif Mountains, Chefchaouen (sometimes called Chaouen) is a charming old-style town where the buildings are painted a beautiful blue. It was touted as a step back in time but in reality, the town is geared towards tourists with lots of little shops selling the typical tourist trappings. Don’t let this put you off. The day trip is worth the time and money as the trip to get there is interesting and if you have a great guide, you can learn a lot about Morocco’s history while enroute. You will pass through parts of the Jbala Mountains. We stopped a few times while travelling to the town, ostensibly for washroom breaks but always at places that had little markets that basically sold tourist items.

You can arrange a tour privately or book through a tour company. If booking private travel, make sure that you arrange a return time at least two hours before you are due back at the ship.

Casino

For those who like to visit Casinos, there is indeed a casino called Casino de Tanger. I did not visit, so I’m not able to offer much in the way of comments for this attraction.

For more information on visiting Tangier you can contact the tourism board at:  contact@informationtourismemaroc.com 

One last comment, Tangier is spelt with or without an `s`. For the purpose of this article, I have gone with the local spelling.

If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave them here or contact me at: gailgauvreau@gailgauvreau.com

Acknowledgement and thanks to Diego Delso whose photos of the Caves of Hercules have been used in this article.